Key West meets Brady Street at Bosley

mkeonline.com
June 23, 2005
By Laura Gawrisch

Nothing is more inviting than a warm tropical breeze off the Florida coast. That might be tough to find here in the Midwest, but at least there's a new Key West-inspired restaurant to tide you over until those flight prices to Florida drop.

Bosley on Brady is an upscale restaurant with unpretentious service and high-end entrees. Owner Michele Green took over the space that used to be Konohana Japanese Restaurant and opened Bosley in April.

Chef Peter Carew offers a good selection of tapas, which seem to be all the rage these days. Several of these "small plates" fed the four of us perfectly, with food to spare. The choices, between $6 and $12, include crab cake, ceviche served in a martini glass, steamed mussels in a wine and garlic sauce and a sashimi of the day.

A menu from the tropics wouldn't be complete without a few refreshing salads, and Bosley offers four. Passion Salad ($9) is a combination of wild baby greens, goat cheese, mango and toasted almonds tossed with a fruit vinaigrette. Three Cheese Caesar ($7) is made with Romano, Swiss and goat cheese. The menu gives nods to Key West restaurants for both recipes.

Main plates run a bit higher, from $16 for gnocchi with fish and blue cheese to $29 for the pan-seared, oven-finished veal chop. Seafood such as tuna and salmon swims its way onto the coastal menu as well.

The service was outstanding. We were treated graciously from the moment we arrived. The surroundings matched the menu's Key West theme, with brightly colored tropical scenes on the walls and colorful pillows covering bench seating in the back. It was quiet enough to be a great place for entertaining business clients or having conversations. The front room is dominated by a long bar, and the menu includes both bar food (priced at $5 to $10) and a healthy selection of martinis ($10 each).

The only disappointment of the evening was that the kitchen had run out of Key Lime Pie, the house specialty.

Erin Nitka, 26, Greenfield

What I ordered: Appetizers (shared): Crab and artichoke dip, $9, creamy dip of lump crab and artichoke served with pita triangles. Entree: Free-range chicken, $17, served with risotto and chicken broth. Dessert: Chocolate Ganache Brownie, $6, a rich cake layer topped with chocolate frosting.

Taste/presentation: The appetizers were served in generous portions. The dip was served with pita triangles - a nice change of pace. The chicken, seared with spices, was tender and juicy. The chocolate torte is for the chocolate lover.

Atmosphere/service: The service was top-notch. Water glasses were filled promptly, and plates were cleared quickly. Our waitress was knowledgeable about the menu and addressed all our questions. The vibrant paintings on the wall added to the upbeat atmosphere of the restaurant.

Good if you want... food inspired by Key West. Bosley delivered upscale food and service in a casual and comfortable environment.

Eric Paulsen, 34, Milwaukee

What I ordered: Appetizer (shared): Spicy chicken quesadilla, $7, stuffed with chicken and Havarti cheese with a side of pineapple salsa. Entree: Seared scallops, $18, served with creamy Gorgonzola risotto, asparagus and pancetta.

Taste/presentation: The appetizers were delicious, though the mound of potato zucchini chips can be imposing (it's enough for several to share). The scallops were fantastic - firm and flavorful, sauteed just right for my taste. I ate slowly so I could savor them. In the only downer of the meal, we were informed the Key Lime Pie wasn't ready to be served.

Atmosphere/service: The service was terrific. Our server was personable and made the experience fun, although double-checking the bill revealed that we needed the charge reversed on the dessert that I'd ordered but they were not able to serve. The atmosphere was comfortable, yet upscale.

Good if you want... a date place where you can try Florida-inspired variations on some of your favorite foods. The menu offered good variety, often with a twist you don't always find. The bar is a good place to have a drink before or after dinner, too.

Sheena Williams, 22, Milwaukee

What I ordered: Appetizer (shared): Potato & Zucchini Chips, $6, crispy zucchini and potato chips served with Gorgonzola cheese. Entree: Florida grouper, $24, Florida Keys grouper served with mango-lime salsa and a potato pancake. Dessert: Fresh berry cobbler, $6.

Taste/presentation: The zucchini/potato chips were unique, and it was enough for four people to snack on. The grouper was excellent, very flaky, yet not too dry. However, I was not too thrilled about the potato pancakes that it was served on. The berry cobbler was good. The only downfall was that the menu listed "multi-berry" and it only tasted like blueberry cobbler.

Atmosphere/service: The waitress was very attentive and knowledgeable about the menu. The atmosphere was quaint and eclectic, a Miami-like feel for the sometimes drab Milwaukee atmosphere. A classy place to go!

Good if you want... a lunch with friends or a romantic evening with a significant other.

full article at: http://www.mkeonline.com/story.asp?id=335150